The final installment of John Lobb’s Gestures Series reveals the meticulous detail involved in the finishing of a made to measure pair of shoes.
Cream, applied in a painterly manner is liberally worked into the leather. Excess is brushed and the transformation begins to take shape through the rhythmic gestures of an expert hand and the time honoured alternation of water and wax.
An object of refinement emerges - the embodiment of generations of transmitted gestures, and a celebration of all of those who devote themselves to the cultivation of their craft.
Porth, a seven eyelet sneaker featuring a raised apron and twin stitch details; taking reference from iconic John Lobb styles offered in the Goodyear welted collection. Porth offers a lightweight, comfortable option for the contemporary man whilst still bearing the hallmarks of ultimate quality and craftsmanship synonymous with John Lobb.
With its whole cut upper - a John Lobb signifier - a single piece of leather is used to create the body of the sneaker. The wheeling pattern apparent on the leather sole edge highlights an attribute typically seen on the finest traditionally handcrafted shoes. Details ensure ultimate comfort and lightness to the wearer. Fully lined in natural leather with perforations at the front allow for air to pass through and the shoe to breathe.
The “sacchetto” construction utilised in the crafting of Porth creates the most lightweight and ultra-flexible shoes that adapt to the movement of the feet.
A new micro rubber sole has been developed consisting of softer areas at pressure points under the heel and front of the foot which, when combined with the cushioning throughout the sneaker, further enhances these qualities. The outsole, with its stitched toe, brings a continuity of styling and durability.
As loyal customers of the brand have come to expect, only the finest leathers and softest suedes are used in a range of rich colours and unique textures.
Porth blends considered athletic characteristics with the attention to detail and unrivalled quality inherent across the John Lobb collection.
Exclusive colours of Maroon Suede and Pebble Grey Grain Calf are offered to online customers. Discover the full colour range here.
Crafted by hand from a single piece of rich museum calf leather, the John Lobb 2017 limited edition shoe, Hayes, highlights the pinnacle of artisanal shoemaking.
Evolving from the classic double buckle silhouette, a style first pioneered by John Lobb in the 1940’s, it features a whole cut construction with hand sewn details set against fluid lines and an elegant rounded shaped toe.
The characteristic hand sewn apron is secured by utilising a natural bristle to meticulously thread through holes made using a fine awl, taking the artisan over two hours per pair to complete.
Through the absence of visible stitching elsewhere, the beauty of the hand sewn apron seam is heightened, with buckle straps completely unadorned and a single blind seam used to join the upper together.
The Goodyear welted construction ensures the most lasting and comfortable shoe. Specially crafted Chambord double leather soles boast finely wheeled welts, hand sculpted waists, tapered heels and painted sole bottoms, all combined to ensure the ultimate in elegance and durability.
Continuing the celebration of unrivalled skills present in the John Lobb atelier, Gestures, Scene IV highlights the choreography and the physicality of the lasting process.
The finely cut leather upper is wrapped and stretched around the last.
Hand twisted yarns become the basis of the meticulous and decorative Norwegian stitch - a technique possessed only by a handful of seasoned artisans. The exactitude and painterly precision of the colouring and scoring
of the sole and heel are witnessed. The raw elemental quality of the process comes to light, through fire and water, in gestures transmitted and honoured through generations.
Gestures, Scene III continues to study the relationship between material, tools and the virtuosic skill of the maker.
From the leather pieces created in Scene II, a ritual of preparation begins, in anticipation of the next stage being brought into focus; the artistry of hand sewing. An elemental quality is brought into light through time honoured skills passed down over generations. Fire and water are utilised alongside specialist hand tools to manipulate the leather, whilst expert technique in intricate hand sewing begins to reveal an object of ultimate refinement.
Gestures, Scene II, the second instalment in the ongoing series depicting the intrinsic relationship between a craftsman and his tools, sees the metamorphic process of turning humble materials into objects of ultimate refinement.
Following on from the creation of the wooden last in Scene I, the craftsman transfers detailed measurements, creating a unique pattern from which flawless leather is cut, which will in turn shape the multi-dimensional form.
Shining a light on the vital relationship a craftsman has with his tools, the Gestures Series celebrates the individual choreography which surrounds a pair of hand made shoes and the absolute craftsmanship present at the core of the John Lobb atelier.
Scene I, the first film in the series, sees the Last, hand carved in Hornbeam wood, gently take form.
Quality, modernity and mastery of technique define five distinctive hand crafted pieces which form John Lobb Artisans' Series.
Designed by Artistic Director Paula Gerbase in unison with the John Lobb Bespoke Atelier, the Artisans' Series highlights and celebrates the absolute craftmanship present at the core of the house.
Meticulous attention to detail is inherent at every stage of the design and making process, from the shaping of the hand carved last, through to the selection of the finest leathers and original fastening options, all encompassed in a capsule collection with lightness and comfort at its core.
A single bridle stud creates a strap closure seen across two styles, including a low cut jodhpur boot. A hand sculpted, bevelled inside waist is prevalent throughout the collection, giving the styles a fluid silhouette which hugs close to the foot in an elegant reference to sportswear. Leather soles are engraved with a distinctive diamond motif, as functional as they are refined.
Posted: January 13, 2016|
Inspired by the mystic granite Tors of Dartmoor, the John Lobb
Autumn | Winter 2016 presentation sees an exploration of a primitive, elemental nature.
With a focus on strength of construction, movement underlines the collection, which celebrates nature in its purest form.
The Balmoral group of walking boots and shoes is offered with a range of new rubber soles, each designed to provide hardy shelter from the elements. The iconic John Lobb Museum Calf is here reimagined with a fine grain and waterproof finish. Both elegant and functional, masculine notched storm welts are mirrored in the serrated edges of the traditional gimped Balmoral pattern line. Styles within the group feature palladium lace hooks and eyelets inspired by a bespoke 1940s ski boot preserved in the archives.
A continuous search for lightness and comfort and six months of development results in the newly introduced Tensile Construction: A traditional Goodyear Welt which boasts extreme flexibility, further highlighted by the quilted sock detail interiors. The group is rendered both in classic John Lobb lightweight suedes as well as the new Moorland Grain.
Moorland Grain is reflected in the now classic plimsole Levah, rendered in rich, earthy tones synonymous with John Lobb’s Cornish homeland.
The Artisans Series, a capsule collection designed by Artistic Director Paula Gerbase in collaboration with the Bespoke Atelier, highlights the absolute craftsmanship and artistry of John Lobb’s Artisans through five distinctively elegant pieces which speak of quality, modernity and mastery of technique.
Function, movement and strength lie at the core of 12 new styles featured in the John Lobb pop-up that launched in Harrods on the 2nd October, 2015. Informed by natural elements of the Cornish countryside, where John Lobb was born, the space unveils the autumn/winter 2015 collection and also offers the made-to-order service. The pop-up is part of the menswear takeover at Harrods that lasts all of October.
Open from 2-19 October, 2015
The Men’s Shoe Salon, Lower Ground Floor
87-135 Brompton Road
London, SW1X 7XL